TP1200 Petrol Wood Chipper FAQ

We stock a complete range of spares to keep your machine running for years to come. From replacement blades and belts to engine components, everything is available on our dedicated spares page.

Absolutely. Watch our demonstration video below to see the TP1200 handling large branches and processing sappy material with ease.

1. Warm Up: Run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil, ensuring it flows out completely. Turn off the engine and disconnect the spark plug.
2. Drain: Place a container (min. 2L capacity) under the engine. Remove the drain bolt located at the lowest part of the engine base.
3. Refill: Once empty, replace the bolt securely. Fill with fresh SAE 30 or 10W30 oil until it reaches the top of the dipstick threads.

Important: These measurements must be checked when the engine is cold.

• Intake: 0.15mm
• Exhaust: 0.20mm (+0.02mm tolerance)

If you experience a fuel leak, follow these steps in order.

Phase 1: The Simple Fix
Before disassembling, check the mounting nuts. Vibration can loosen these over time. Use a 10mm spanner/socket to tighten them.

Phase 2: Inspecting the Float Bowl
If the leak persists, the internal float may be stuck.

1. Fuel Off: Turn the fuel tap to the OFF position.
2. Identify the Bolt: Look at the underside of the carburettor bowl. You will see two bolts: one at a 45-degree angle (drain) and one vertical. You must remove the vertical 10mm bolt to remove the bowl.
3. The "Twist" Technique: Once the bolt is out, do not pull the bowl straight down. Twist it gently to release the seal. Pulling straight down can damage the rubber O-ring.
4. Check Float: You will see a white plastic float. Flick it gently—it should move up and down freely. Ensure the small metal pin it pivots on has not worked itself loose.
5. Reassemble: Push the bowl back up, ensuring the O-ring is seated correctly and not pinched. Tighten the vertical bolt.

Replacing the blades ensures your chipper maintains peak performance. We have produced a step-by-step video guide for this process.

For optimal chipping and to prevent blockages, the gap between the fly blades and the anvil should be set between 2mm and 3mm.

If your blade gap is incorrect, you will need to adjust the static anvil. We have created a visual PDF guide to show you exactly how to measure and adjust this.

Follow these steps to safely replace the clutch.

Phase 1: Removal

1. Access: Remove the black metal belt cover located between the engine and the chipping chamber using a 13mm socket.
2. Slacken Belt: Loosen the engine mount bolts on the baseplate. Slide the engine towards the chute to introduce slack, then remove the drive belt.
3. Remove Clutch: Remove the center bolt and slide the old clutch off the shaft. (Note: You may need a flywheel puller if the clutch is seized).

Important: Watch for the square metal "Key" on the drive shaft. Do not lose this!

Phase 2: Installation

1. Fit New Clutch: Align the keyway slot and slide the new clutch onto the shaft.
2. Secure Bolt: Apply Thread Lock (e.g., Loctite) to the 13mm clutch bolt and tighten it securely. Without thread lock, the engine torque will vibrate this bolt loose.
3. Finish: Refit the drive belt, tension the engine back until tight, and replace the cover.